Skin care has become a meeting point for cosmetics and medicine, reshaping how we approach skin health. Under the “skin health” concept, products once marketed solely for beauty are now framed as tools that can strengthen barrier function, reduce inflammation, and support dermatologic therapies. Many formulations are backed by clinical studies comparable to those used in topical medications, and they are increasingly being recommended by physicians and pharmacists.

This reflects a new role for dermocosmetics in healthcare, with pharmacies becoming a primary recommendation channel and working in close collaboration with dermatologists to manage physiologic skin processes. But the resulting hybrid space raises clinical and regulatory questions: The European legal framework permits functional claims yet prohibits marketing these products as therapeutic. In practice, this creates a delicate balance between scientific evidence and commercial messaging.

The term dermocosmetics applies to topical products with active ingredients able to influence the skin biologically, beyond a purely aesthetic effect. They can modulate processes such as inflammation, skin microbiome, or barrier function, and they are frequently used to support dermatologic therapies within a clinical strategy.

Quasi-Therapeutic Ingredients

An international Delphi study, based on the opinions of more than 60 medical professionals specialized in cosmetic dermatology, reached a clinical consensus identifying 23 topical ingredients for managing common skin problems seen in practice. Among the compounds with the strongest support are azelaic acid, used to treat acne and hyperpigmentation; retinoids, with recognized efficacy against fine lines, wrinkles, and acne lesions; niacinamide, used to improve facial redness and dyschromias; and mineral sunscreens, considered key to preventing ultraviolet-induced damage and skin inflammation.

According to the authors, most of these ingredients have clinical evidence at moderate-to-high levels (levels 1b-2b), which reinforces their positioning within a solid scientific framework and explains their increasing presence in dermocosmetic formulations recommended in dermatologic practice.

There is no doubt that recent scientific literature shows growing interest in evaluating these products with methodologies typical of pharmaceutical clinical research, analyzing their impact on physiologic skin parameters and on the management of common skin conditions. Although they do not meet the regulatory standard of a drug, several studies have reported clinically relevant effects, especially as adjuncts to dermatologic treatments or as initial interventions for mild conditions.

Dermocosmetics in Acne Management

Acne is one area where clinical evidence for dermocosmetics has expanded rapidly. A review published in 2026 concluded that these products can be used as monotherapy for mild acne and as an adjunctive treatment in mild-to-moderate cases. In particular, routines that combine targeted cleansers, moisturizers adapted to acne‑prone skin, and sunscreens help improve barrier function, reduce sebum production, and decrease the number of inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions.

A multicenter 2024 study evaluated a dermocosmetic cream containing adapalene in patients with mild-to-moderate acne, enrolling about 100 participants over a 56‑day follow‑up. Although all groups improved clinically, the combination with the dermocosmetic produced a significantly greater reduction on the Global Acne Severity Scale in repeated‑measures analysis (P = .038), along with additional improvements at various follow-up points.

Beyond their direct impact on lesions, an international expert panel noted that these products can improve the tolerability of potentially irritating topical treatments, favor therapeutic adherence, and serve as maintenance therapy after medical treatments such as antibiotics or isotretinoin. These factors, especially relevant in chronic or relapsing diseases such as acne, explain their growing integration into clinical management strategies.

Barrier Repair Benefits

Beyond acne, the role of dermocosmetics has also been evaluated in other common inflammatory conditions seen in dermatology clinics. Some studies have shown that certain formulations can help reduce erythema and transepidermal water loss in particularly sensitive areas, such as the eyelids of patients with atopic dermatitis, when used continuously as part of skin care routines.

Other studies have observed a reduction in the recurrence of localized allergic skin processes associated with irritation or barrier disruption after prolonged use of specific dermocosmetic products, although the volume of available evidence remains limited.

In rosacea and sensitive skin — conditions influenced by inflammatory and environmental factors — a clinical trial published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology evaluated a dermocosmetic formulation containing mineralizing thermal water, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and tocopherol in patients with rosacea linked to exposome factors. Results showed meaningful reductions in inflammation scores and symptoms at days 15 and 30, along with changes in Demodex density, a parameter commonly assessed in the clinical context of this disease.

Post-Laser Skin Repair

One clinical area where dermocosmetics have a specific role is in pre‑ and post‑care for laser procedures in aesthetic dermatology. Increasingly, certain dermocosmetic products are used in protocolized post‑fractional or ablative laser care, with trial designs comparable with those used for topical drugs.

For example, last year a neurocosmetic cream applied after fractional laser treatment was evaluated in two randomized, double‑blind, split‑face studies in women undergoing different types of laser procedures. Results showed good tolerability and safety and faster skin recovery (7 days) compared with standard care.

These studies build on prior scientific reviews that analyze the use of agents after rejuvenation laser treatments — such as peptides, thermal waters, growth factors, or beta‑glucan gels — and suggest that some formulations may promote reepithelialization, improve aesthetic outcomes, and reduce adverse effects.

Ingredients such as dexpanthenol are a clear example of the bridge between cosmetics and medicine, with studies supporting its role in restoring the skin barrier and accelerating skin regeneration after superficial interventions, including laser treatments.

The Emergence of Neurocosmetics

A new area within dermocosmetics is marked by so‑called neurocosmetics, products that explore skin‑nervous system interactions through the skin‑brain axis.

An article in Clinics in Dermatology examines this from the perspective of skin biology and proposes that skin should be understood as a neurobiological interface where somatic, emotional, and sensory stimuli converge. The authors propose developing formulations targeted at neurocutaneous mechanisms that integrate dermatology and neuroscience through cosmetic science.

They argue that formulations aimed at modulating these pathways, for example, actives that influence neurocutaneous mediators or sensory perception, respond to growing demand for integrative skin care approaches that include the patient’s psychophysiologic dimension. As the field evolves, neurocosmetics could consolidate as a translational research area.

Clinician-Led Recommendations

But the rise of dermocosmetics is not explained only by formulation innovation; it is also driven by increasing dermatologist involvement in selecting and recommending these products. In clinical practice, dermocosmetics are increasingly integrated into care plans for patients with common or chronic skin conditions, where barrier maintenance and treatment tolerability are decisive.

In Spain, this trend is also reflected in training. The Spanish Academy of Dermatology and Venereology organizes courses for dermatologists to integrate cosmetics with scientific evidence into clinical management, while tools such as InSkin, developed by the Open University of Catalonia in Barcelona, Spain, allow physicians and pharmacists to filter and compare dermocosmetic products by ingredients and clinical goals.

At the same time, new technologies such as AI for skin analysis are being incorporated; a recent study in Actas Dermo-Sifiliográficas found that digital tools and deep learning models optimize skin assessment and predict therapeutic responses, which could translate into more precise dermocosmetic recommendations.

Industry research programs focused on the skin exposome are also expanding the scientific basis for how environmental and lifestyle factors influence skin health.

Pharmacy as Gateway

To round out the context in which “skin health” is growing, consider the sector’s economic dimension. The dermatologist acts as prescriber, but the pharmacist also plays a key role in recommending dermocosmetics. A few years ago, the global “dermo” market was around $66 billion, with projected annual growth between 9% and 14% through 2030-2032, according to various industry analyses. This pace places dermocosmetics among the most dynamic segments of the cosmetics industry, driven by demand for products with scientific backing and a healthcare positioning.

Within this expansion, the pharmacy channel holds a central position: Together with Anglo‑style drugstores, it accounts for 36.2% of global sales — roughly $23.8 billion. Its differential appeal over mass retail lies in combining healthcare advice with an evidence‑based positioning, which increases the perception that these products occupy a middle ground between personal care and skin health.

Europe retains a significant share of the global market — about 36% of the business in 2024. Countries such as France, Spain, and Italy concentrate many dermocosmetic laboratories and brands, many historically linked to the pharmaceutical or dermatologic fields.

In Spain, according to Radiografía del sector en España 2024, presented by Spanish Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, showed a national consumption of cosmetics and perfumes exceeded €11.2 billion, a growth of 7.7% in 2024. The same report highlighted the rise of pharmacy as a cosmetics point of sale, especially for facial treatment and cleansing products.

With all the data, it can be said that the concept of “skin health” is no longer just a market trend but represents an integrative vision of dermatology in which maintaining barrier function and daily skin care take on an increasingly relevant role alongside medical treatment. New research lines — from microbiota modulation to the skin‑brain axis and personalization with AI — indicate that dermocosmetics will continue to advance as a bridge between skin science and clinical practice, redefining the place of skin care within health.

This story was translated from El Médico Interactivo on Univadis, part of the Medscape Professional Network